Mountain Trails [#04] - Babia Góra

Diablak, known to everyone as Babia Góra, is one of the most recognisable mountain peaks in Poland. Why? Certainly due to its height. Although 1725 m a.s.l. may not be a particularly impressive number, it makes Diablak the highest peak of the Żywiec Beskids and the highest peak located outside the Tatras. However, it's not the height that is the calling card of the Queen of the Beskids, but the unpredictable weather. Babia Góra is known for its very capricious and variable atmospheric conditions. The weather on this peak can change dramatically within a matter of minutes. Having been on Diablak several times, I have only once managed to enjoy the views from the summit for longer. Let this not be a poor advertisement for the peak; it is truly worth the risk to set off on a hike. Why? The answer is simple: beautiful views of the Beskids, Gorce, and Tatras. But from where is it best to set off and which way to return? After all, there are several interesting trails leading there. 

The best route is a loop: starting with the red trail from Przełęcz Krowiarki, through Sokolice, Kępe, Gówniak to Babia Góra. The return is along the red trail through Przełęcz Brona, to PTTK Markowe Szczawiny Hut. Then, continue on the blue trail through Skręt Ratowników until Przełęcz Krowiarki.

- The hiking time is about 6 hours, depending on the hiker's fitness.

- Total elevation gain: 947 meters,

- Highest point: 1725 m a.s.l.

- Length of the trail: 15 kilometres.

- No difficulties, no artificial aids; caution is advised on the scree near Gówniak.

The expedition begins at Przełęcz Krowiarki, also known as Lipnicka. There is a fairly large parking lot where you can leave your car. At the entrance to the trail, there is a wooden ticket booth for the Babia Góra National Park. The red trail we follow is also part of the Main Beskid Trail. The first few kilometres of the trail steeply ascend via wooden and stone stairs. The next meters of elevation are gained by walking through a spruce forest, where occasionally small glimpses between the trees reveal themselves. The lack of views is compensated by the ascent to the summit of Sokolica (1367 m a.s.l.), where there is a viewing platform. It is worth making a brief stop here to take in the views of Mała Babia Góra, Zawoja and the gentle slopes of the peak we are climbing.  From Sokolica, the sign indicates about 1:30 to Babia Góra. Here we leave the spruce forest, and our trail starts to lead along pleasant stone steps among the mountain pine. After walking for a few minutes, we reach the next peak and viewpoint, Kępy (1521 m a.s.l.). The trail begins to include rocky ascents, sometimes steep, but also increasingly sweeping views. The next summit of the trail is Gówniak (1617 m a.s.l.) - it is a rocky peak that is often mistaken for Diablak during bad weather, concealed by fog. The final part of the ascent takes us gently among boulders to the summit of Babia Góra (1725 m a.s.l.).

At the summit of the Queen of the Beskids, there are a few characteristic elements. One of them is definitely the stone wall. For cold tourists, it provides ideal shelter from the wind, which can blow very strongly there. Additionally, we can find a stone altar, a plaque dedicated to John Paul II, and an obelisk commemorating the ascent of Archduke Joseph of Austria to the summit. In good weather, from the summit, we can see an unforgettable panorama, where the Tatras mainly capture our attention - they seem to be within arm's reach.

When we have feasted our eyes on the view, we head down the red trail, through Przełęcz Brona (if you have enough time and strength, you can ascend from the pass to the summit of Mała Babia Góra - the ascent and return takes about 30-40 minutes), down to PTTK Markowe Szczawiny Hut. It is worth taking a break there with a warm tea and something tasty, after all, we still have more than 2 hours of walking on the blue trail ahead. This section of the trip leads continuously through the forest and is now not too demanding. Just before the very end of the descent, it is worth deviating from the trail and following the marked path to Mokry Staw, which looks beautiful, especially in autumn. From this point, we have the last half-hour walk to Przełęcz Krowiarki and a well-deserved rest.

Although Babia Góra is a capricious mountain, it can reward its moods with beautiful views
and varied trails. For those who enjoy sunrises, Diablak is a great idea for greeting the morning - at the summit, in good weather, one can partake in the incredible spectacle of the sun rising above the mountains.

Author of the photos and text: Ewa Bandyk